14 May 2007

 

Golden Week in Kyushu

We set out from camp a little after 8 am, by far the tardiest, most ill prepared hikers there, replete with bags between our socks and our shoes - the poor man's waterproof boots. We hiked down along the waterlogged trail before our descent ended at a set of railroad tracks, and quickly deduced that it would not be prudent to wait for the next train (the tracks are remnants from when the island was used by loggers). We hiked inland further, reaching a rest area with toilets and electricity (to her relief, Milo found a plug for her digital camera charger inside).

We took a short respite before resuming our hike, now an ascent into the thick interior of the island where most of the old growth forest was. After passing throngs of people, all of whom were on their way down and out, we made it to Wilson’s Stump, a hollowed-out shell of a magnificent cedar that was felled many years ago and then named for the American botanist who discovered the glen where the stump remained. A small Shinto Shrine was erected inside and the walls inside framed the massive trees towering above us perfectly.

A kilometer or so from there – and a grueling 45 minute hike – we finally arrived at the largest cedar on the island and in Japan, and perhaps the oldest tree on the planet. Jomon-sugi is an estimated 7200 years old, and is 28 meters in girth. This tree has existed since the time Japan (pottery has been unearthed from this period), and most of the planet, were mere hunter-gatherers. Although there are plenty of trees that are larger and taller, the sheer age of the tree has given it a distinct charisma (which, let’s face, most trees lack) that make it such a site to behold.

A scant few kilometers from the tree, we arrived at another encampment and decided to stop for the evening. We ate a hearty meal of pasta and brown and black rice with miso. We concluded the evening with a game of cribbage before heading off to bed. Milo and I had found space in the cabin, but Joe and Haunani chose to camp outside this time due to cramped quarters inside. The wind began to whip through the trees as the sun set, being at altitude brought a heavy fog and colder temperatures than elsewhere on the island. We slept well that night and we needed it. Being in the very center of the island meant that we would have our hands full the following day, which proved to be the hardest day of the hike…






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